Karni Mata (1387–1538) was a revered female sage known as Shri Karniji, venerated by her followers as an incarnation of Mata Durga. She is the official deity of the royal families of Jodhpur and Bikaner. Leading a life devoted to spirituality and service, she is remembered for her saintly existence. One of the most prominent temples dedicated to her is located in Rajasthan. This temple, built after her disappearance from her home, is well-known for its population of sacred white rats, which are protected and honored within its premises.
Another temple, constructed during her lifetime, preserves her footprints as a mark of her visit to that place. Her temples can also be found in Mathania, Udaipur, and Alwar. Karni Mata was married to Depoji Charan, but she chose to live a spiritual life and arranged for her husband to marry her younger sister. Over time, she traveled with her followers to various holy sites and ultimately attained salvation. Karni Mata is deeply revered by her devotees as a powerful goddess.
The unique Karni Mata Temple in Deshnok, situated 30 kilometers south of Bikaner, stands out as one of India’s more unusual attractions. Known for its holy population of rats, the temple draws visitors despite the unconventional experience. Many tourists visiting Bikaner include this temple in their plans, often opting for a half-day excursion. Regular bus services are available from the main bus stand in Bikaner as well as a stop on the road to Deshnok and Nagaur. Alternatively, an autorickshaw or taxi round trip from Bikaner, with a one-hour waiting period, generally costs about ₹600 to ₹800.
Karni Mata, a spiritual figure from the 14th century, is believed to have performed numerous miracles during her life. A prominent story recalls how she brought back her youngest son, Lakhan, who had drowned. When Yama, the god of death, refused to intervene, she, as an incarnation of Durga, restored his life herself. Karni Mata then decreed that her family would escape death, instead being reborn as kabas, or sacred rats. Even today, nearly 600 families in Deshnok claim to be her descendants, believing in their eventual reincarnation as kabas.
Though the temple is not overflowing with rats, a significant number can be found in quiet corners and areas where devotees leave offerings. Visitors must remove their footwear to enter, as the temple rituals dictate. Having a kaba run across your feet is regarded as a blessing—whether you welcome it or not.
Outside the temple, there are plenty of stalls offering snacks and refreshments for visitors.
Address: NH 89, Deshnok, Rajasthan 334801
Open ⋅ Closes 10 pm
